3 posts tagged “kruger national park”
(We forgot to allow comments on the previous safari posts. If you have been burning to leave us a comment, and we must admit, we do love the comments :), you may do so now. Cheers! N&B)
For our third act we offer you a walking safari. Noosha was not feeling up to walking around the bush so early in the morning (out the door at 5:30 AM again) so I went solo. Ludovic drove me into the park before dawn to meet the guides and the rest of the walking safari guests. Turns out there were no other guests so I got my own private walking safari with two armed guides.
Chester and Isaac lead the safari. Shortly after sunrise we began our meander into the bush after a short discussion of the rules. The guides were to travel in front and in back of me. We were not to talk if there there animals around, only communicate with hand gestures or gain another's attention with animal sounds or clicks. If an animal were to charge we must stand our ground until directed by the guide as the animals 9 times 10 will mock charge (sounds reassuring ya?).
I was also informed that one typically does not see many animals on a walking safari. The animals in Kruger have grown up seeing vehicles. They see the vehicle as just another animal, one in which they have never been shot by. As soon as you step out of the vehicle, stand up in, or lean out of the vehicle you change the shape of vehicle/animal they will run. If one is walking they see you has a human and something that has killed them in the past. For instance you can drive within a foot or two of an Impala and they will hardly stop eating, walk within 50 yards of an Impala and they will dart off. Knowing all this I was under no expectation to see any large animal on the walking safari. This tour was to be about the more subtle things one see in the bush and how to read the environment, the dung, the plants, the footprints, etc.
On with the safari... Our first stop was at a dry sandy river bed where we looked at the difference between White and Black Rhino prints, Hippos, Elephant prints (both adult and youth and determine the direction of travel), and determine the difference between cat (plus cheetah and versus other cats) and dog.
Cat Versus Dog:
Within the main pad of both animals lies the difference. The cat has what appears to be three lobes where as a dog has two. So a Leopard will have three and a Hyena two.Cheetah Versus other Cat:
Most cats have retractable claws while the Cheetah does not. This allows the Cheetah to maintain better traction while running and turning at high rates of speed. One can see the difference between the two by the presence of little holes/circles/dot around the outer front edge of the print.White Versus Black Rhino:
Along the trailing edge of the print, a White Rhino will have a notch of sorts pointing towards the front of the print, which looks like a W, whereas the Black Rhino has a more oval pad. Each has three toes.
After moving on from the lesson on tracks Chester discussed dung, yes dung. One could spend hours discussing the finer points of dung. I must say it was very fascinating. We first stopped at a Black Rhino dung. The Black Rhino is a browser, meaning they eat leaves and branches as opposed to grasses. As such their dung is filled with undisturbed, undigested branches due to their poor digestive system. Additionally the branches are 0.5" - 1" in length and cut at a 45 degree angle. Next to the Black Rhino dung was an older Elephant dung. One can tell the difference between the two by the color (or colour for some), the Rhino is darker. The Elephant is also a browser and the dung is filled with undigested branches. Unlike the Black Rhino, the Elephant dung has longer branches which have been smashed by chewing. Up next we had an even longer discussion on the White Rhino's dung pile. The White Rhino pile is a large toilette used to mark the territory of a male individual. They will come back to this pile over and over again to mark their territory. The dung will get trapped in cracks within their feet and be deposited throughout their area, informing others who is boss. Female Rhinos will also deposit dung at the pile but around the edge of the pile. The White Rhino is a grazer, meaning it eats grasses and ground plants. It will have a wider mouth to help in this effort. And their dung will be filled with grasses. Within the dung we found a Dung Beetle (pronounced by Chester as Beet lee). The story of the Dung Beetle is a fascinating component of the ecosystem, which I will not go into but is worth researching.
White Rhino dung pile:
Black Rhino dung (note the small undigested and undisturbed branches):
The walking safari was an amazing experience. While the diversity of sightings was extremely limited to two Rhinos, the feeling of being untethered in the bush and unprotected in such close proximity to massive beasts is a once in a life time experience. I will tell my grandchildren about these moments. Thank you for reading through my David Attenboroughesque post.
(Day 2 was spent lounging around the lodge, chillin' with curious wart hogs, and taking a sunset river ride. Don't forget to read the Day 1 post below!)
We woke up dark and early for a dusk to dawn safari of Kruger with Bushwise's guide Ludovic (yes, how delightful is his name!). We jumped into our safari vehiclele, bundled ourselves in hoodies, beanies, down jackets and woolly blankets for a crisp and windy hour drive to Kruger National Park's southern entrance. Even Ludovic who described himself as "not a sissy man" bundled up.
Safari Vehicle:
Don't worry moms! It was only cold in the morning. The rest of the day was perfectly sunny.
We watched the sunrise and listened to Ludovic passionately point out every winged, hooved, predatory (and non) creature he knew of. He included tidbits about dung, insects and other things that I (Noosha) probably missed (meaning forgot ;))
Having been schooled that game viewing is part knowledge and part luck we seemed to have a fortuitous morning. Big five citings included elphant, buffalo, the rare black rhino, and even lions!! It was amazing!!! The lion strutted right next to our open window vehicle. It was closer than you could get at a zoo! If we lacked sense, we could have reached out to touch him!! SO exciting! After a while the lion wandered away from the road when inconsiderate drivers were cutting him off for pictures. Nothing attracts a massive group of cars in the vast Kruger Park (think size of Portugal) like a feline sighting.
Ludovic cooked us a hearty, traditional, and yummy South African breakfast of eggs, bacon, fried tomatoes, onions and toast which we ate overlooking Kruger from a Lebombo mountain viewpoint. Its worth noting that we also had the most delicious aromatic papaya. A clever but misguided Vervet monkey tried to steal food from the picnic-ers (word?) We know it shouldn't have been there, but it was so small, jumpy, and cute!
Other animals we saw:
Elephant (Big 5)
wart hogs are Noosha's favorite for the it's so ugly it's cute factor
and the ubiquitous but essential Impala
Tangent: Why did Chevy name their car after a common and ordinary antelope? Bad call Chevy. Bad call.
Tangent 2: Did you know that the antlers of antelopes are actually called horns for African antelopes.
After a very long, but seriously awesome day we watched the sunset around 5pm and made our way out of the park which closes at 5:30pm.
I forgot to mention the many birds we saw. Let's try and remember their names! There was the kingfisher, the franklin quail which looked plump and tasty, several species of eagle/hawk/vulture, and the bird called Zazu in Lion King. :) Real name currently unknown!
Anyway, if you ever get the opportunity to have a safari experience, we strongly recommend it. Spend several days watching the animals and go with a knowledgable guide. We had a great time with Ludovic. It was a surreal and amazing experience.
Noosha & Brian
The tale and pictures you've been waiting for!
We arrived at the tiny thatched roof Nelspruit/Kruger National Park airport to Tim, another friendly South African face welcoming us to "proper Africa. Cape Town is European."
Tim is co-owner and architect of the Bushwise resort in Marloth Park, a conservation park just outside of Kruger. The lodge is beautifully designed with a thick thatched roof that is a requirement for developing in the area. The view from the the balcony of Bushwise is of Kruger National Park and the Crocodile River. The properties are only divided by a wire and electric fence (which apparently doesn't really work on the leopords!). Everyday we get to see a still and serene landscape, and at night hear the lions and hippos declaring their territory. Very cool experience!
View from the Bushwise upper deck:
Very nice little infintity pool over looking Kruger:
Shortly after arriving we went on our first safari adventure-the night run. Guides from the park take a group of about a dozen on a sunset to evening ride in a vehicle with spotlights to see the nocturnal animals. Fortunate for us we had a jolly guide (Isaac) with a good sense of humor because after 2 hours of riding and having cold wind and water slapped in our faces, and seeing nothing but common impalas and bush babies we were feeling a little grumpy. Eventually we did spot animals. An adolescent elephant, black backed jackyl and hyenas! On future winter night rides, I recommend a ski mask and several wool blankets. ;)
-Noosha, the blossoming blogger and Brian
